British Designers Show Caribbean Flair in Paris

Grace Wales Bonner

Grace Wales Bonner, renowned for her impeccable tailoring and sophisticated cultural nods, continues to captivate the high-fashion world. Her eponymous label, based in London, has recently gained broader acclaim through collaborations with Adidas, notably sparking a resurgence in the Samba shoe with her silver rendition. Additionally, her designs adorned the popular kits worn by Jamaica’s female football team during the 2023 World Cup.

Wales Bonner showcased her latest collection in Paris, impressively blending haute couture with commercial appeal. The runway featured interpretations of classic macs, satin suiting, and subtly flecked knitwear paired unconventionally with red swimming trunks. Noteworthy were also her new tracksuits and trainers, including a revamped Superstar, expected to ignite online fervor.

Althea McNish, a Trinidad-born artist and designer, lent her exciting prints to some of Wales Bonner’s pieces. McNish, known for her mid-century textile designs like Golden Harvest, brought a unique tropical perspective that resonates vividly in Wales Bonner’s modern clothing.

Inspired by McNish’s ability to popularize Caribbean aesthetics in British culture, Wales Bonner praised her for infusing her heritage into influential and disseminated works. “She brought what she described as her ‘tropical eye’, or Caribbean sensibility, to depicting Trinidadian flora and fauna, but also British landscapes,” Wales Bonner noted.

Althea McNish

In a parallel celebration of Caribbean heritage, Bianca Saunders, another British designer showcasing in Paris, drew inspiration from Jamaica, her ancestral home. Saunders’ collection titled “The Hotel” was a nuanced homage to Jamaican culture through the lens of a tourist. It featured smart tailoring reminiscent of resort butlers, alongside relaxed satin loungewear, beach shorts, and playful evening sequins.

Saunders’ designs also playfully integrated practical elements like a long plastic mac and printed reusable shopping bags, alongside tourist-themed T-shirts emblazoned with culturally significant phrases like “Who God Bless No Man Curse”.

Reflecting on her inspiration, Saunders highlighted the influence of photojournalist Bradley Smith’s 1956 book “Escape to the West Indies”, which shaped her vision of Jamaica in the 1940s with a modern twist. She emphasized the authenticity of her designs, rooted in personal observations from past trips to Jamaica, including the incorporation of knee-high boots that resonate deeply with Yardie culture.

Saunders’ recent accolade of winning the BFC/GQ Designer Fashion Fund underscores the growing recognition and support for British designers of color. Following in Wales Bonner’s footsteps, who secured the award in 2023, Saunders’ achievement signals a positive shift in the fashion industry towards embracing diverse perspectives and talents in London and Paris alike.